Greetings,
I decided to indulge my fancy and take the opportunity to stop in Lunenberg, Nova Scotia, to pay a visit to a vessel that has just completed a round-the-world cruise. The vessel is the barque Picton Castle, owned and operated by the Windward Isles Sailing Ship Company. It arrived home in Lunenberg last Wednesday, June 23, 1999. My friend, Captain Daniel Moreland, is the principal officer of the company and the master of the ship. Their round-the-world voyage was some 18 months long. It started in Lunenburg in November, 1997, and transited a route primarily in the world's tropics.
What is special about this circumnavigation is that the ship is American owned and a square rigger. It dedicates its available berths to those who want to experience a long distance sailing voyage in the old fashioned style, but who may have no experience on tall ships. When one is aboard, one becomes the ship's crew under the guidance of a core of very experienced professionals. Under their guidance, one learns by doing how to "hand, reef and steer," as the old sailors adage goes.
What is also special about this rendezvous is that it brings a symbolic closure to a "hail and farewell" rendezvous that occurred between the Pride and the Castle when we were both in Bermuda back in December of 1997. At that point, each of us was just beginning a long voyage to far off places.
My plan was, time permitting, to divert from our path to Wyandotte and join in the revelry celebrating the Castle's return from her well executed circumnavigation of the globe. After all, Pride II has recently executed her voyage to Asia equally well. These are the only two American traditional sailing vessels that have gone as far afield since the mid 1970s. And they did it at the same time! Plus, some of the crew had sailed together on other vessels, including Captain Moreland and myself. Given all those confluences, it was too good a symbol to pass up.
We arrived in Lunenberg around 0830 hours yesterday, Saturday, June 26, during an overcast day with scattered rain. Lunenberg is a small working fishing port on the coast of Nova Scotia. Red and green painted buildings spread up the rise from the harbor. Commercial fishing vessels dot the docks along the shore and the harbor has a scattering of moored yachts. Picton Castle was at a pier and looked distinctive for her rig, her flags, and her white hull. There was little activity to be seen anywhere aboard the Castle, nor much in the town. But that would soon change as our gunner, Eugene, split the serene scene with four very loud cannon reports to announce our arrival and to salute Picton Castle - a famous world traveler.
We sailed on by and rounded up by the dock we would be using, only just vacated by Highland Seas. She was interesting to me as she looked like a very well kept example of a large fishing schooner in the style of Bluenose II - except she was not Bluenose II. I could not place her and I found this curious as I know most of the traditional sailing vessels in North America. I later learned she was the old Pilot out of Boston. Curiously, when I was thinking of the American vessels that had undertaken long sea voyages, Pilot had come to mind. She went to East Asia around the mid 1970s. So there we were, three vessels from long voyages to far off places in the same very small fishing harbor in Nova Scotia. Curious.
Once secured to our dock, we learned that the crew of the Picton Castle were still recovering from a hard night of celebration. The third in a row. (We also learned that they were all getting up as our cannonade had pushed sleep away permanently.) This was OK since our crew could not go ashore, anyway, because I had to get formal clearance from Canadian Customs first. This took us till midday as there were several forms to fill out and then fax to Customs at Halifax. Frequently, these forms are filled out in advance. The last time I took Pride II into Canada, the authorities handled our entrance as they would a private yacht. That can be done with a simple phone call and no forms. But not this time.
Once I had the formal clearance, I gave all hands the rest of the day off and we all spent the time looking at Lunenburg, visiting the Castle, and meeting her crew both aboard the vessel and in the local restaurants and bars till late into the evening.
Today the crew of Pride II has been hard at work on maintenance - lots of varnish, plenty of cleaning down below, and some trouble shooting on the watermaker. The weather has been glorious - clear and sunny. My worries that we have misused our time is moderated by the significant amount of maintenance the crew has accomplished. Tomorrow we will scramble to top off fuel and get some last minute shopping done for the galley and other areas. As soon as possible, we will get underway and get on with our job of getting to Wyandotte on time.
For those of you who don't know Lunenburg, we took some photos for you to see. Lunenburg is described by certain cognizanti as the only surviving, untouched commercial fishing port left in North America.
It still has the industry that supports fishing vessels - the blacksmith shop; the foundry (where Pride II's anchor windlass came from); the block makers shop (where Pride II's blocks came from); and seafood and fish companies that take in, process, and sell the catch. There are many stores that cater to the needs of fishing vessels and crews. There is even a marine railway that hauls vessels out of the water for repair. Elsewhere in the town, there are small businesses that supply the citizens of Lunenburg. There are a few Inns in town. Tourists are welcome, but there is little here to attract the seeker of night life. The visitor is best served by savoring the pretty countryside and emulating the simple living style of the residents. Yachts are welcome, but what is most admired is commercial marine utility and traditional vessels! For those that have no marine interest, there is camping in uncrowded places. And one must always mention of the Lunenberg's residents. They are friendly, welcoming, and plenty savvy to have survived the current hard economic times and the depleted fishing industry.
We're off to the St. Lawrence Seaway tomorrow with our rendezvous with Wyandotte on the near horizon.
Cheers,
Captain Miles
Back to 1999 Captain Logs Index
Past Logs
June 25, 1999 | June 15, 1999 | June 13, 1999 | June 2, 1999
May 31, 1999 | May 11, 1999 | May 4, 1999 | February 19, 1999 | December 1998 | November 1998
October 1998 | September 1998 | August 1998 | July 1998 | June 1998 | May 1998
| April 1998 | March 1998 | February 1998 | January 1998
| December 1997 | October 1997
| September 1997 | August 1997 | July 1997 | June 1997 | May 1997 | March - April 1997
| December 1996 | September -
November 1996 | August 1996 | July 1996 | June 1996 | May 1996 |
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