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Captain Dan at the Helm
Captain Dan Parrott

September 17, 1999, Part 1 of 3

DATE: September 17, 1999
LOCATION: New London, CT
ENTERED BY:

Captain Daniel S. Parrott

Part 1 of 3, Getting from There to Here
Jump to Part 2: From the Great Lakes to New England
Jump to Part 3: Gloucester Schooner Race

P2 under Full Sail There is much to tell of the Pride of Baltimore II's recent passage from Toronto to New London, Connecticut.

Most who know the Pride know that she is a superior passage-making creature. Some of the things that make her so are her speed, due to hull design, and the weatherliness of the Baltimore clipper rig. Another characteristic of the Baltimore clipper rig is her ability to set a large amount of canvas, and so attain higher average speeds in light air conditions than other traditional vessels of comparable size. On a long ocean voyage, these factors contribute significantly to Pride II's performance. But navigating from Toronto to Connecticut presents a somewhat different situation. At 1,800 nautical miles following straight rhumblines, the voyage could be fairly described as "long." But an open ocean voyage, it is not. And therein lie the diverse and constantly changing challenges that make this particular voyage so interesting, no matter how many times one may do it.

The voyage in and out of the Great Lakes is among the most technically interesting runs that Pride II makes. This was her fourth foray into the Lakes, plus once with the original Pride. An interesting voyage, however, may be anything but simple. So it has been the case this time. While we have been blessed by mostly favorable weather, it is the physical geography itself through which the vessel passes that magnifies the normal complexities entailed with any voyage. First, there is the fundamental fact that a vessel voyaging from the Great Lakes to New England essentially reverses direction from northeast to southwest in making a hairpin turn around Nova Scotia. The same wind that was fair one day is contrary the next. Furthermore, the ever changing orientation of the coastlines and the irregular shapes of the bodies of water transited present new options and perils in rapid succession. This is no tradewind passage where you set the sails, adjust the sheets, and plow along for weeks on end. No siree. This is work!

Great Lakes Map
Look at a map and consider the following. The voyage started on a lake. Admittedly, it was a big lake, but a freshwater lake nevertheless. On her way to salt water, Pride II passed through not less than fifteen locks, eight in the Welland Canal and seven in the St. Lawrence Seaway.

Welland Canal Barograph
The drop on many of these locks was upwards of 45 feet in a matter of minutes. The ink from the barograph trace marked the corresponding change in atmospheric pressure by scrawling out perfect little upward steps.

After leaving Lake Ontario, Pride navigated upon the waters of the St. Lawrence River for 550 miles. This is a tad shy of sailing to Bermuda, which is a proper ocean voyage by any measure. At Montreal, the St. Lawrence becomes tidal. Depending on where you are when you hit the flood tide, you might have one knot or six knots of current against you. The St. Lawrence widens ever so gradually after Quebec City until eventually one loses sight of the far shore. By the time the river has blended into the Gulf of St. Lawrence, it is over 50 miles wide. At this point, the mouth of the St. Lawrence River dwarfs the Chesapeake Bay both in size and its potential to turn nasty.

The Gulf of St. Lawrence is an enclosed body of water, but this brings little solace to the mariner who may be caught out in the middle when the weather turns. It is cold and rough even beneath an August sun. The proximity of land, including the bold Gaspe Peninsula, the low lying sand spits called Iles de Madeleine, Anticosti Island, Prince Edward Island, New Brunswick, Northern Quebec, Nova Scotia, Cape Breton, and Labrador, all serve to complicate the equation of how best to cross the Gulf under sail in this region of notoriously changeable weather. On the one hand, these islands and coasts can offer shelter from bad weather. By skirting close to shore, one may cleverly use the land to block the seas, yet still sail along in relative comfort. On the other hand, if the wind shifts to an unexpected quadrant or at an unexpected time, these same coasts may present deadly lee shores. A vessel may be forced to turn back, or, at the very least, resort to her engines or anchors. Or both.

Nova Scotia Map
Upon crossing the Gulf, Georges Bay in Nova Scotia funnels down to yet another lock at the Straits of Canso. The Canso lock bisects Nova Scotia and enables a vessel to cut about a hundred miles from the trip around Cape Breton Island. After sailing east for half a day to get out of Chedabucto Sound, the course turns west again along the south shore of Nova Scotia. This is where even we geographically proficient sailors rediscover the fact that not all of Canada is north of the United States. To sail to Penobscot Bay on mid-coast Maine, one must actually steer northwest after rounding the bottom of Nova Scotia. To get to southern New England from Nova Scotia, a vessel must steer more west than south. A course steered parallel to the coast of Nova Scotia will eventually bring a vessel to a point south of Cape Cod. This watery relationship between Nova Scotia and New England was once at the heart of a considerable trade and regional affinity that seems to have faded with the course of events.

After leaving Canadian waters, substantial tides affect progress across the Gulf of Maine, dragging a vessel north of her intended track on the flood and then slapping her back down with the ebb. If the goal is to reach southern New England, as ours was, then a choice must be made whether to go through the Cape Cod Canal or go outside. This is a choice made primarily on the basis of the weather, keeping in mind that a sailing ship wants wind. But if one chooses the outside route, there are the hazards of Nantucket Shoals and shoal water found on Georges Bank. If a gale drops down from the north, or a hurricane, such as Cindy, Dennis, or Floyd, ambles up the coast while you are fooling around out east of Cape Cod, you may find yourself back in Nova Scotia picking the Canadian coins out of your penny jar so you can buy a newspaper, and thinking maybe you should have motored across the Gulf of Maine when you had the chance. Enough on the theoretical. Here's what happened....


Go to Part 2: From the Great Lakes to New England
Jump to Part 3: Gloucester Schooner Race

Back to 1999 Captain Logs Index

Past Logs

August 25, 1999 Part 1 | August 25, 1999 Part 2 | August 25, 1999 Part 3 | August 22, 1999 | August 10, 1999
July 14, 1999 | June 27, 1999 | June 25, 1999 | June 15, 1999 | June 13, 1999 | June 2, 1999
May 31, 1999 | May 11, 1999 | May 4, 1999 | February 19, 1999 | December 1998 | November 1998
October 1998 | September 1998 | August 1998 | July 1998 | June 1998 | May 1998
| April 1998 | March 1998 | February 1998 | January 1998 | December 1997 | October 1997
| September 1997 | August 1997 | July 1997 | June 1997 | May 1997 | March - April 1997
| December 1996 | September - November 1996 | August 1996 | July 1996 | June 1996 | May 1996 |


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