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I am now on holiday from the ship and staying with the O'Flynn's in Baltimore, Ireland. Captain Parrott relieved me on Monday and has only just left for Lisbon as he was delayed about a day and a half due to weather. Quite a bit of that coming through this area these last several days.

We arrived safely and ahead of schedule in Baltimore, Ireland, last Tuesday. A good thing considering the weather. There were three blows through last Sunday. None were too serious, but all needed tending to. This meant that the crew didn't get as much time off as they might have. But when shore time was available, Pride II's friends in Baltimore, Ireland, were as hospitable as ever.

The first blow we raced into Baltimore was of short duration that built up from the south-southeast to about Force 8. Then it switched to the southwest and moderated while continuing to the west. It began about 0500 on Wednesday a week ago and lasted only six hours. That evening, it was possible to send the crew ashore for a welcome drink hosted by our friends Richard and Eileen Bushe in their pub called Bushe's.

I had already shared with the crew the history of the Prides' relationship with Baltimore and our mutual interest in further visits. I also pointed out that Baltimore was a good midway stop on the way to Lisbon from Oslo since it was better to go west as far as one could before heading south when starting from as far north as Oslo. It is also a good stop for fuel and victuals before the run across the Bay of Biscay. But even with this preparation, the warm reception in Baltimore was a completely different experience from any stop the crew has experienced so far. For instance, they were immediately offered rooms in Algiers, the small B&B owned by Kieran Walsh, a fellow who became a close friend to several of the original Pride crew back in 1985. Since going into the hotel business, he has made this offer to the crew whenever the ship has come to town.

With two anchors down, I estimated that two-thirds of the crew would be needed to prepare for hauling the anchors if Pride II were to drag in a blow. So I established a time off rotation using the at-sea watch rotation. Fortunately, we had good weather until Sunday morning. This allowed enough time for two sea watches to have time off before the next weather arrived.

Two friends made during our 1985 visit to Baltimore became our agents to help us locate what we needed. The first was Richard O'Flynn who manages Carbery Timber in Skibbereen only 11 miles away. The other was Ciaran Cotter who runs Cotter's Store, manages fuel supplies for the local fishing fleet, and is the coxswain on the Baltimore Lifeboat. Our "stand in agents" helped us find and procure (mostly over the phone) engine oil filters, seizing line, an emergency water container, stainless steel all-thread rod with nuts, diesel engine oil, and waste oil disposal. They found everything on our list except for disposable brushes.

The main welcome event hosted by Baltimore, Ireland, was held Friday evening and was modeled after an event that occurred back in 1985. The party took place at Chez Youen, a restaurant owned and operated by Jacob Youen, a Frenchman who settled in Baltimore some time before the first Pride visited. (Interestingly, Jacob came to Baltimore as a fisherman aboard Jolie Brise -- the same tall ship we raced across the Atlantic. He fell in love with the place and never left!) Back in '85, the crew was invited by the town to a sit-down supper that included much toasting, Irish style, both humorous and sincere. That evening ended with the singing of favorite traditional and modern songs.

This year, we were invited to a similar supper. I was surprised by the strong similarities between the two nights some fifteen years apart. Captain Parrott added his guitar skills again just as he did back in 1985. Only this time, he played and sang several Irish pieces he had learned during his first visit.

Because of the meager water depth at the town dock, we can hold an Open House in Baltimore only when high water is approaching. After talking with Richard Bushe and Gerald O'Flynn about tide ranges and timing, we decided to hold the Open House on Saturday evening at which time we would also load fuel and oil. Thankfully, the weather was benign. The crew hauled back the anchors on a good sunny day with light winds. Ciaran Cotter was my guide and advisor for how soon we could get in after low water. He timed it perfectly and we got in with little clearance under the keel so we had plenty of time to load fuel before the ship was high enough for the gangway to reach the dock and allow the public aboard.

In two hours we had over 600 visitors and sold a lot of souvenirs. When it began to get dark, we closed up ship and went back to our anchorage and prepared for Storm #2.

A special visitor arrived in Baltimore that day, which raised the number of original hands from the 1985 visit to three. The first mate for the 1985 voyage aboard the original Pride was Chris Rowsom. He and his wife were on holiday in Ireland and made a special effort to get to Baltimore to meet Pride II. It was interesting to note the "progress" the three of us - Dan Parrott, Chris Rowsom, and myself - had made during the last fifteen years. Dan was a deckhand and is now a master of vessels. Chris was a first mate and is now the Executive Director of the USS Constellation Foundation in Baltimore, Maryland. Me? I'm the same Captain Miles. Interesting.

The second blow was stronger than the first. It began Sunday morning about 0800. It came out of the south-southeast and built to strength, this time Force 8-9, and then switched to the west quite suddenly at 1100. Then it built some more in the afternoon and slowly went to the northwest. By 2300 it was gusting Force 9-10. By 0100 on Monday, the wind was down to Force 8 and by dawn it was quite moderate at less than Force 5. Another blow was due in 24 hours, however, which was predicted to be even stronger. In the 24- hour lull, the third sea-watch got their day off, but could not stay ashore that night at Algiers, a perk that most of the other crew enjoyed.

Dan and I changed command on Monday. The ship was nearly ready for sea, only the groceries and the guest crew scheduled to sail to Lisbon remained to get aboard. Since I was staying on in Baltimore for a while longer, I would be around to help with any additional logistics that may be needed. Then, ashore I went after some three months in command of Pride of Baltimore II!

The next day, Pride II dragged anchor and motored around under Captain Parrott's command for about eight hours waiting for the wind to die down. I have done the same thing in the past. Pride II's engine power is not excessive, but it was more than enough to maintain way in the winds that blew in that third storm. When anchoring becomes impractical, motoring around is a perfectly sensible and practical thing to do.

As luck would have it, the Baltimore Lifeboat was scheduled to make a semi-annul inspection run with inspectors down from Dublin. I was invited by Ciaran Cotter to go along for the run. Because Captain Parrott had asked that all guest crew remain ashore for the duration of the blow, Lee Vogtman, the teacher aboard, was ashore and also came. So the two of us went for a ride with the volunteer crew of the Royal National Lifeboat Institute (RNLI), Baltimore Station.

The RNLI is an exemplary institution for anyone interested in maritime rescue agencies. They do their own design work and testing and they pay for the construction of the lifeboats they design. Except for the mechanic, the crews on station are all volunteers. Due to the increase in recreational maritime activity putting increased demand on the lifeboats (and the fact that good coxswains do not grow on trees), it may soon be necessary to pay the coxswain as well. The RNLI covers all maritime rescues of the British Isles and Ireland. But what is impressive is there is no steady funding from government; the entire institution is supported by donations.

The Baltimore Lifeboat is about 48 feet long and is a self-righting design. She is a low profile vessel driven by two engines. She can be commanded from an outside bridge as well as down below. Below, the crew sit in cushioned armchair seats reminiscent of airplane pilot chairs complete with harnesses.

I sat in the back on the starboard side and had a clear view of the navigation equipment and the helm position three rows forward. Beyond were the forward windows with their wipers going full blast.

The storm was still "up" and so Pride II continued to make a small, half mile pattern in the deeper water of Baltimore harbor. The inspectors were interested in the ship so we took a spin by her. With 6 foot swells coming into the harbor, she was heaving around a bit but was otherwise quite safe.

Then Ciaran headed out to sea!

Through the windows I could that the storm waves were easily 12 feet high. We were heading for them at full power and 15 knots. Why was I out here? Traditional sailboat sailors do not head into seas of that size! But I was not in charge here and we went off the top of waves about three times! Actually, the ride was surprisingly comfortable with Cathal Cottrell, the mechanic, at the helm. He knew what he was doing. Whenever it felt that we were about to go airborne, he cut the throttles and we slid down the backside of the wave into the trough. Then full power immediately.

About a mile out, we turned back. There was no problem with rolling because of our speed and the spacing of the swell. The trip back into the Baltimore harbor was a surf ride. Back inside we performed an exercise drill with an emergency portable pump. During this time, Ciaran explored the depths in the western part of Baltimore harbor and found a spot in which he thought Pride II could maneuver yet be out of the swells coming into the harbor. He asked me about it and I concurred. So he called Captain Parrott and advised him of the discovery. Later Pride II moved into the spot - hopefully for a more comfortable ride.

By evening, all ashore could see that Pride II was finally able to anchor again near Sherkin Island since the wind had moderated by then. Meanwhile, the weather reports indicated a probable window of moderate west to northwest winds that might continue for another 48 hours after the blow subsided. The blow finally subsided this afternoon and Pride II made final departure preparations for Lisbon.

Just after sunset, she shot her cannons to her friends up on Beacon Hill, the entrance to Baltimore harbor, and disappeared off into the moonlit sea leaving us with only the glow of her stern light.

I will remain here for another couple of weeks before heading back to Baltimore, Maryland, and the office demands made on the shore-side captain. Winter plans and next year's schedule await. It looks like the Great Lakes again - this time with the added activity of tall ship racing organized by the American Sail Training Association. Should be fun!

Cheers,

Captain Jan Miles