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Captain Jan at the Helm
Captain Jan Miles


October 16, 2006

DATE:   Monday, October 16, 2006
LOCATION:     Dockside Portsmouth, Virginia
ENTERED BY:   Captain Jan Miles

A lot has happened since last I wrote as PRIDE II closed in on Boston Harbor back on September 27. Or at least it has been a busy time for us aboard the ship.

Great Chesapeake Bay Schooner Race - Oct. 12-13, 2006

The most recent activities are related to PRIDE II'S  winning a whole bunch of honors associated with the annual Great Chesapeake Bay Schooner Race that was sailed Thursday and Friday  - October 12 & 13. PRIDE II was one of nearly 40 schooners racing down the Bay last week in wind that ranged from nearly flat calm to 25 knots of Northwest and North winds. The results after all was said and done·

  • PRIDE II - First Across the Finish Line
  • PRIDE II - First Overall in Fleet (after handicap adjustments)
  • PRIDE II - First In Class AA (after handicap adjustments)
  • PRIDE II - Best Overall (after handicap adjustments·meaning she had the largest lead in time over her second place finisher when compared to the leads in the other classes)
  • PRIDE II - First Overall in Fleet at Windmill Point (after handicap adjustments·means she was leading the whole fleet at a point in the race about 30 miles before the finish)
  • PRIDE II - First Overall Traditional Schooner (after handicap adjustments·several of the schooners in the fleet are more modern and yacht-like with jib-headed mainsail. PRIDE II is more traditional, like many in the fleet, with her gaff mainsail.)

The sixth honor is a new one for this race. But the other honors have existed for some time. PRIDE II came close to winning nearly everything back in 2003. That year she was First Across the Finish Line, First Overall in Fleet, First In Class AA. and also Best Overall. Other years that she raced she has won Line Honors and First In Class, Line Honors and Third in Class, Second in Class. I believe that PRIDE II has won at least one honor every time she has raced in the Great Chesapeake Bay Schooner Race. However, I seriously doubt she will again find herself able to win all of the available honors at once.

It could happen again, sure. But there is a new and very capable player in the game now. Schooner VIRGINIA was third in fleet across the finish line and she won Second in Class AA this year. At one point she was leading PRIDE II in the early miles of this yearâs race. Eventually PRIDE II passed by and led VIRGINIA by 26 minutes at the finish line, which hides the fact that VIRGINIA was gaining on PRIDE II steadily during the second half of the race, but did not have enough distance before the finish to actually catch PRIDE II. She improved steadily during the second half of the race and, if she continues to improve, she will be very hard to beat in the future. But for now, PRIDE II remains a challenging vessel to out-sail. Next year I wonât be the skipper since we two skippers take turns with the fun things like the Great Chesapeake Bay Schooner Race. Maybe by the time I get another chance to race PRIDE II down the Chesapeake Bay, it will be VIRGINIA leading the way. I have a detailed account of the race at the end of this log.

Boston

I last wrote when PRIDE II was approaching Boston, which was a great port for the crew because it had taken a solid two weeks of moving PRIDE II around from the Great Lakes from Erie. Even when PRIDE II was stopped due to contrary winds, the crew was working on something related to getting the ship back to the Atlantic East Coast. So Boston represented an accomplishment, especially when we managed to arrive as scheduled when it seemed for sure we would be late. While in Boston, the crew managed to get some long overdue paint on the yellow whale-strake planks on the port side. We were even able to spring some special request time off for Charley Adams who is from Boston and for Emily Harwood who has friends in the area. The rest of the crew dealt with chores like laundry, the painting, and open house while the cook, Ito, went shopping. After two nights and the scheduled time to depart arrived, I postponed it for a day. A weather pattern was building so that if we left on it time would have presented an uncomfortable slog to windward. My study of the weather suggested that if we waited another night we would have mostly fair winds for the run to New York.

So it proved to be, after we motored down to the Cape Cod Canal with a calm wind to start followed by a SEârly increasing to around 15 knots. But I am getting ahead of myself. On the way out of Boston, we saw the USS CONSTITUTION moving out of her berth. She was being ãturned aroundä in a celebratory way. Her turn-around point was off Castle Island and was marked by several 21 gun salutes in respect to the 65 military service personnel that are honorees of awards of bravery. Instead of motoring on our way, we stopped to observe the respect being paid to the honorees.

We passed through the Cape Cod Canal around dusk and, with the SE breeze blowing, set sail and proceeded down Buzzards Bay. Passage across to Long Island Sound was rapid and dawn found PRIDE II a full third of the way westward along the north shore of Long Island. But with dawn came rain squalls packing some wind. The crew got their exercise raising and lowering the jib a couple of times to deal with the wind. They also struck and reefed and then reset the foretopsail. After passage of the squalls, the wind steadied from the west and provided an opportunity to get all sail set. By daylightâs end, PRIDE II was off of Stamford and we anchored down for the night to wait for the favorable current that we would ride all the way into New York Harbor and to North Cove Marina at the south west end of Manhattan Island.

New York

North Cove is located right in the center of the World Financial Center which shares the space with a lot of residential buildings. All day from very early in the morning till late at night, there are passers by that come look at PRIDE II. A special coincidence was the arrival of AMISTADE. She is also a privateer-type schooner with many similarities to PRIDE II. She is smaller and her mission is to tell the story of saving African natives which had been kidnapped by slavers after managing to escape and landing in American waters. The two boats had never had the chance to share the same dock before and so it was interesting for both the New Yorkers and us to see the differences up close. The weather in Manhattan was great and PRIDE IIâs crew were able to get the other side of the whale-strake yellow painted. We also were able to grant others in the crew special personal time. Mike Fiorantino is from Queens and the engineer's, Caleb Twombly, fiancŽ was in town. The crew also ran an open house for those passing by. Manhattan Sailing Club is the overall manager of North Cove and they hosted PRIDE II handsomely. They also had a cocktail reception aboard to share PRIDE IIâs visit with the neighbors and the clubâs membership. This tone of sincere interest in what I call the working class traditional sailing vessels, what many today refer to as tall ships, is new to North Cove and comes about because of the Manhattan Sailing Club. PRIDE II and her like provide novel sights for the New Yorkers mixed in with the more common, pristine yachts that pass through. Meanwhile this welcome by North Cove provides PRIDE II access to Manhattan for corporate and Maryland Government receptions. While we did not have such receptions on this visit, we had had one back in June with the Maryland Port Administration.

Baltimore Bound

Our departure from New York followed a familiar pattern as our Boston departure. Another cold front was due and so I waited a day beyond the schedule for leaving. With passage of the front, we had northerly winds veering to NEârly as PRIDE II sailed out of New York Harbor and on down the New Jersey coast to the Delaware Bay. In less than 24 hours PRIDE II was reaching up the Delaware Bay in 30 knots of NE wind under only the foresail and the staysail. She motored through the C&D Canal mid day on Friday October 6 and then set only her reefed foretopsail to sail with the strong NE winds down the upper portion of the Chesapeake Bay. Later, the crew struggled to set the foresail for the last reach up the Brewerton Channel into Baltimore. Once that was set, they struck and stowed the foretopsail. Under just the foresail, PRIDE II sailed up to Fort McHenry arriving by 1800 hours. By 1900 hours the ship was tied up to a ãhiddenä pier for a night of comfortable and secure rest before sailing PRIDE II into the Inner Harbor shooting her cannons and signaling her arrival after a successful summer in the Great Lakes.

Homecoming in Baltimore

Homecomings for PRIDE II follow a pattern. An arrival time is established for the ship to be either tied up, if that is the priority, or to be arriving at a certain time and vicinity for photo opportunities for the print press and television cameras. Often both aspects are important. With all the planning that goes into such a celebration - calls to media to be present for the occasion, calls to the welcoming dignitaries or organizations to coordinate details - the only thing that can call off such an event is dangerous weather. The NE gale was not a problem inside Baltimoreâs Inner Harbor. So on Saturday morning, Oct. 7, 2006,  PRIDE IIâs crew set four lower sails and the square foretopsail and tacked her around the Inner Harbor and shot off cannons to mark her arrival. After starting to set sail at 0930, all sail was down again and PRIDE II secured at Fellâs Point Broadway Street Pier by 1100 hours. A lot of work in very short time! Then at 1300 hours it was open house to the public. It rained all day  - and in the afternoon it poured. There were not a lot of people coming aboard. There were not a lot of people at the Fellâs Point Festival either - but more there than boarding PRIDE II.  So while the crew felt good about a good job done executing PRIDE IIâs mission in the Great Lakes and getting her home in fine and timely fashion, they celebrated the good feeling alone. But Sunday was a different picture. The wet weather was gone and the day was a cloudless blue sky with everyone and their great aunt out enjoying the sun and PRIDE II and the Fellâs Point Festival.

Details about the Great Chesapeake By Schooner Race

Now we come to the Great Chesapeake Bay Schooner Race. This is an event that is now 17 years old. Founded by Lane Briggs and friends of both Norfolk as well Baltimore, the racers gather at Fellâs Point prior to the race for the usual preparations. An extra excitement was in the air this year because there was a new schooner in the race to meet PRIDE II. The curiosity concerned which schooner would prevail - VIRGINIA or PRIDE II?  In fact VIRGINIA was coming to the Great Chesapeake Bay Schooner Race for the second time in two years. But PRIDE II was in Europe last year when VIRGINIA came the first time. VIRGINIAâs second place across the finish line and 2nd in Class AA last year was the basis for a lot of discussion about what she might be able to do with PRIDE II this year.  PRIDE II  has variously won 3rd in class and 1st in class, and on occasion has been First in Fleet as well First Overall in past years. The talk of performance was friendly. In fact it could only be friendly. The captain of VIRGINIA and two others of her crew were good and proud ex-PRIDE II crew. We aboard PRIDE II knew that VIRGINIA could do very well against PRIDE II. Considering the friendship of past and likely future shipmates in an industry that makes its living providing opportunity to non or novice sailors aboard the more traditional vessels, not to mention the real educational tenor of virtually all the tallships missions, I am proud of the crews of both vessels and other vessels for keeping the talk of the two vessels friendly and encouraging, rather than descending to crass sport-trash-talk.

So with the obligatory pre-race partying and Parade of Sail behind us, the race began off Annapolis in a near virtual calm from a dying breeze out of the west. VIRGINIA had a slightly better start than PRIDE II by about half a boat length. But at speeds of less than a knot, the success was not in being first across, but in being close to the start and not being dragged over the line prematurely by the ebb current. Those vessels with a greater respect for that possibility held way back. But VIRGINIA and PRIDE II were right up there with a few of the really light and semi-modern schooners when we all heard the blast of the starting gun.

Not long after the start, the wind began to come from the east very lightly. VIRGINIA was moving better than PRIDE II, in large part I figure due to her headsail stays being more vertical and more widely separated than those of PRIDE II, permitting VIRGINIAâs headsails to swing like a door in the light breeze rather than hang like a curtain like PRIDE IIâs. With VIRGINIAâs sails permitting the light breeze to pass by rather than be blocked, she started to move ahead. But soon after its arrival, the east wind increased a bit and PRIDE IIâs headsails lifted and she started to move along with VIRGINIA. Not long after this, the wind veered to the SE and increased some more and PRIDE II and VIRGINIA began moving at the same speed. PRIDE II was behind by 3-6 boat lengths and a bit to leeward, but both vessels were pointing nearly the same. With the wind out of the south, the whole fleet made its way toward the western shore after going around Thomas Point Light House. VIRGINIA tacked somewhat short of reaching the western shore but PRIDE II carried on. When PRIDE II ran out of deep water, we tacked her and headed back to the SEârly. She crossed VIRGINIAâs bow and we tacked her over to cover VIRGINIA. The air was still light at around 8 knots and both vessels were making the same speed but PRIDE II seemed to be pointing closer to the wind.

As PRIDE II and VIRGINIA made their way, I was anticipating the wind veering further to the SWârly. This soon began to happen and as both vessels were closing in on the western shore, the wind came southwest and VIRGINIA tacked first. PRIDE II tacked a moment later and both vessels pointed down the Bay in a rising SWârly breeze. VIRGINIA did not point as high as PRIDE II hence she was going faster than PRIDE II. I kept PRIDE II going to windward because it was necessary to weather the shoal at Sharpâs Island some distance down the Bay. PRIDE II was speeding along at about 7 knots hard on the wind while VIRGINIA was making 8-8.5 knots almost 10 degrees further off the wind than PRIDE II. Eventually the reality of their course not weathering Sharpâs Island came to roost and they pointed up higher to weather that shoal. But she wound up pinching and slowing down and PRIDE II went ahead of her again while making good speed hard on the wind which by this time had reduced again to about 8 knots true strength which meant she was making about 5-6 knots compared to VIRGINIAâs 4-5 knots.

As dusk fell, the fleet was spread between the lead boat, WOODWIND near Cove Point and ahead of the next boats by at least 5 miles, to the largest boat in the fleet, GAZELA OF PHILADELPHIA, all the way back at Thomas Point Light. PRIDE II and VIRGINIA were sharing a position of 4th and 5th in fleet with some of the smaller racing class schooners. Then the cold front arrived.

The cold front was fairly mild. It was dry and did not have thunder clouds or violent winds. Still, with an increase from 8 knots to 25 knots and a change of direction from SW to NW and N, the onset of the new winds after dark provided some excitement to the fleet. PRIDE II got early warning of the coming winds through listening to the NOAA radio weather reports giving wind directions and strength around the region - Wilmington, Delaware had 20-25 knots from the NW and BWI Airport had 17-22 knots from the NW.  But PRIDE II also experienced a warning when the light winds began shifting from close to the bow at an angle of 30 degrees to 60 degrees for a minute or so, then to 90 degrees for another minute, then to 120 degrees for another minute. Being a schooner, it is more important to ease the mainsail first, so we were well on our way to having the mainsail eased all the way out for the new wind direction from on the quarter when we got the first gust. Because the first gust was more northerly, to avoid an unplanned gibe, we steered a little more to the right - toward the SW - at first. This was quickly determined as unnecessary when the new wind settled into a NW breeze. With the mainsail already out, it was merely a matter of correcting our heading to keep to the race course down the Bay and adjusting the other sails. Once those sails were adjusted and the studding sail was set, we had about four hours of fast reach sailing right towards the finish line. Meanwhile we could see that the initial gusts had affected some of the boats in our vicinity differently than we had been affected aboard PRIDE II. Behind us VIRGINIA spent a minute or two going straight west. Ahead of us the racing yacht schooner WHEN AND IF did the same thing. While they did those things, PRIDE II raced ahead.

Around midnight, PRIDE II made Smith Point Light House at the lower lip of the entrance to the Potomac River. The wind had been veering towards the north which meant PRIDE II could no longer reach with all sail pulling. Instead she had to go dead downwind. Doing this means PRIDE IIâs mainsail blankets the foresail and the jibs. When they are blanketed, PRIDE II usually slows down because of the loss of sail area available to the wind. Going wing & wing is not easy because of PRIDE IIâs extreme rake. In stronger winds it is possible - and so we experimented with going wing & wing. With 20 odd knots of NNW wind, as we approached Smith Point Light the experiment worked - after a fashion. But with the wind as strong as it was, PRIDE II did not lose a lot of speed because of her square sails. She lost some speed. But not enough to force us to sail her down wind through a series of reaching legs with gibes in between. So we sailed straight to the finish line without worrying too much about going wing & wing and watched VIRGINIA slowly reduce the nearly 5 miles distance we had achieved when we had been reaching. By the time PRIDE II crossed the finish line, she was about 3 miles ahead of VIRGINIA.

The big surprise for me in this race was passing the lead semi-modern schooner WOODWIND. During the lighter winds out of the south and southwest in the early part of the race, she and ADVENTURER 65, both staysail rigged schooners with jib-headed mainsails, had been leading the fleet down The Bay. At sunset WOODWIND was in fact out of sight ahead - I estimate she was more than 5 nautical miles ahead of PRIDE II. Whenever one is chasing another well-sailed vessel, it takes a very long time and a lot of distance to close the distance and pass. I never assumed PRIDE II would cross the finish line before WOODWIND after she had achieved such a long lead. But as the finish line got within 3 miles, it became evident to me that somehow PRIDE II had gotten pretty close to or maybe even passed WOODWIND. The confirmation of this was the fact PRIDE II was the first vessel in the fleet to call the ãfinish line race committeeä by radio with our actual finish time. It was more than 15 minutes after our call that WOODWIND called in her finish time and less than 10 minutes later VIRGINIA called in her finish time. This order of radio calls and the times that were called in confirmed that PRIDE II was the first vessel to cross the finish line. Not only had she managed to lead VIRGINIA across the finish line in the first race between these two magnificent sailing ambassadors, PRIDE II had also managed to finish ahead of the very quick and well sailed, smaller, semi-modern vessels that usually lead the fleet to the finish. There was good reason to feel elated with the performance of PRIDE IIâs crew, without whom no master of PRIDE II can sail her faster than another well sailed schooner.

Postscript - Drydock in Portsmouth, VA

It has taken me a week to write the above. In the meanwhile PRIDE II has been hauled out of the water for a bottom cleaning, inspection by USCG and general hull caulking maintenance before new bottom paint is put on before re-launching. The racing glory is over and for all hands it is days full of caring for the ship we depend on for our livelihood, our safety and comfort. I will share more about our dry-docking in a future log.

Cheers
Captain Miles


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