Impressions of Xiamen, China

I've commandeered the ship's computer for the evening and so I thought I'd jot down my impressions of China as I see them so far. Xiamen is a large island, part of an archipelago located directly across the straits from Taiwan. The climate is mild this month, hot and humid in the summer, and wet in the winter. The folks here are openly curious about us big-nosed, hairy giants, and some giggle if you say "Hello!" Most folks I've met have studied some English in school and are excited to use it. There are some tourists here and I get the feeling that they would like to promote tourism more freely. Shopping is a bargain, but don't let them know it, or they might catch on to this capitalist idea and adjust the prices! But they bargain fairly and I hope I do, too.

Don't get the idea that I spend all my time shopping. I've had one day off here, which was spent on the island of Gulang Yu looking at the different gardens, the architecture, the boats, and, yes, drinking beer and singing karaoke. This tiny island (Gulang Yu) is noted for being a historical survivor of the different cultural changes that have taken place through the centuries. They also don't allow cars or bikes on the island, so that adds to the serenity. But there are about 300 vendors, all selling the same things, who are neither subtle nor serene; throw in the beggar children and adults with babes in arms (who are relentless), and, well, you don't have the picture yet. Tonight I'm watching a laser-light show to disco music on the base of a warrior-general monument about 200 feet tall. There are two towers streamed in Christmas lights, but up close they are rusty and dangerous-looking. Food stalls line the streets with people's hard-earned efforts, but I can't get past the open sewer smells. OK, I think you're getting the picture now.

One thing the crew agrees upon: this is the hair-cutting Mecca of Asia. We have almost all had our hair done -- these guys are pros! At least 30 minutes to wash and massage your scalp and neck and face and ears and shoulders and temples and at least another 30 to trim it up just right: 40 yuan. Let's see, 40 divided by 8 is -- 5 dollars!

Tomorrow is a bus tour of the island of Xiamen, the crew wants to see farms and rural areas, at least that's what I told the agent the crew wanted to see! Perhaps I'll continue this saga through Hong Kong.

19 April 1998

Golly gee, another night alone with the computer. This probably doesn't sound like a big thing, but I live on a small boat with one computer and 12 other hounds. Also, this requires shore power (for non-ship business stuff) and quiet time in the aft cabin, a rare thing. Well, our bus tour didn't turn out to be as rural as I thought it would be, but if someone had told me I was going to see a famous Buddhist temple on the side of a mountain, and eat a 10 course Chinese meal with all the best local dishes, I would've said "Hen Hao!" And it was!

Tonight I'm laying low like most of the rest of the crew. Tomorrow we shove off for Hong Kong, a three day transit -- and it's bright lights, big city again.

Amy Strange