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Date: Wednesday, October 4, 2000
Location: Baltimore, Ireland

A Few Minutes With Andy the Cook

Blowing Soup Out of the Bowl

Pride in Harbor during Gale

Dayle took her soup on deck day before yesterday at lunch right after we'd dropped our second anchor. She came stomping down the companionway ten minutes later with soup dripping all over her new wool jacket that she got in Oslo. "That effing wind blew my effing soup right out of the bowl," she yelled in rage.

"There's one for the Beaufort Scale, " drawled Christopher the Mate. "Force eight, when soup blows out of the bowl."

Little did we know how far our soup would be blown before the wind went down. It was Dan Parrott's first day driving the boat since back in our Opsail days in New England, and the first thing he did was get the crew back from our various haunts in the lovely metropolis of Baltimore, Ireland - population about 200 now that the tourists are gone. We've been stopping here whenever we get to Europe since the first Pride came in '85 and it's one of our favorite places - quite a change from the capitals of northern Europe where we've been spreading goodwill hand over fist the past two months.


Ferry from Baltimore

He managed to get everybody but Chris Landers who was out with his parents, and he showed up next morning when it was too rough to send in the Zodiac for him. Chris found Captain O'Driscoll of the Shirkin ferry and caught a ride with him.

So they're getting close and the crew is all clustered aft holding fenders, the boat is pitching and rolling around, and Captain O'Driscoll slows down and considers his approach.


Sherkin Ferry

"If you can get under the mainsail boom, I can just climb out on the footropes," offers Chris.

"Are you mad?" cries O'Driscoll's deckhand, aghast.

But Captain O'Driscoll thinks a minute. "I suppose it's the kind of thing you lads do all the time," he hazards.

"Oh sure," says Chris. "We always do it this way."

And O'Driscoll times his approach and Chris steps over as the ferry rises on a swell. Then he crabwalks up the main boom and hops on the quarterdeck. We didn't even need a fender.

Dan at the Con

But an hour later the wind rose up again and both anchors start to drag. And the fun really begins. We're in this shallow little harbor that's open to the south. And the south wind, along with some remnants of hurricane Isaac, is blasting right in the narrow treacherous little mouth of the bay. So we really don't have a place to dodge the wind, which is up to Force ten and eleven. The highest speed our instruments recorded was 68 knots, which is Force twelve. Wind like you read about. So we have to use our engines to position the boat till the wind shifts a little and we can get out of the way. The props are coming out of the water every couple of minutes, and making a shrill noise spinning in the air.


And that's when one of the engine exhaust pipes snaps in two down in the engine room. John and Chris have to put on respirators and refit a new pipe while the engine room fills up with exhaust fumes. So John puts his respirated head up out of the engine room hatch and catches Brad Fleury's eye.

"Tell Dan he has to kill the port engine for a few minutes," says John.

"You're kidding, right?" says Brad.

Crew Cranking

And once that crisis was over and we got in the lee of Shirkin Island and dropped our eight hundred pounds of anchor, they start dragging again. So it's raise the anchors again, which, you must know, we do by hand on a windlass - just like the good old days.

Anchor Work

Only now one anchor has fouled on a big steel cable. So Paul and Ellen are poking at it with the boathook, but it's too taut. PJ comes from the lazarette with the bolt cutters and we're just discussing whether the cable is electrical when Paul pops it free.

So we drop the anchors one more time and Dan mentions that if we don't get a good purchase this time, there's nothing for it but to go out to sea, which, in 68 knots of wind would be pretty horrible, but there's no lee shore to crash into. But, thank God, after eight hours the wind finally lays down and we can set the hooks and eat a late dinner.

What a contrast. The people of Baltimore, Ireland, are so friendly, so happy to see us, they threw us a party when we got in and they set up another one for last night. And the Mate said if the wind started up as forecast, we might not be able to leave the boat.

Keiron

"No worries," said Keiron Walsh. "When it blows out of the south, it's never more than a puff."

A puff to blow the soup right out of your bowl.

Andy the Cook





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