Asian Experiences
August 12, 1998
By: John Paul Hope, Deckhand
We have just finished having dinner - breaded pork chops, and mac and cheese. The Chief Mate's watch is now on deck, keeping a good eye on the radar and steering a great circle route towards Seattle. At this time, PRIDE II and her crew are ghosting through the fog at 8 knots. The seas settled down a few days ago and the ride, at the moment, is very comfortable.
This short log can't possibly capture our experiences in Asia. Every day was filled with new sights, strange cultural differences, and an endless stream of people that wanted to know us and about the ship. I can, however, pass on a few highlights that will remain with me for the rest of my life.
All of us have made friends, old and young, while visiting the different ports. Some live very traditional lives, while others are more "with the times" than ourselves. No matter where one goes in this world, people are more or less the same. But these people have qualities to an extent that I have never seen before. Hospitality that never faded. Willingness to help anybody with anything. And a genuine concern with the well being of others. Getting to know these people was the ultimate experience for us. The geography and architecture were fascinating enough, but to interact with the people was truly enlightening.
On our last night in Tokyo, a friend invited me to watch fireworks. I didn't give it much thought beforehand. She traveled two hours from her house to reach the ship. Then it was another hour and a half before we arrived at the beach where the fireworks could be seen. There were easily 2,500 people lining the waterway. Most were on little blankets or pieces of plastic tarp to keep the sand off. A few younger folks played soccer or Frisbee, their laughter overshadowed by the booms and whistles of the display above our heads. Let it be known, the Japanese have worked pyrotechnics into an art form! (Being the gunner on board, I have an eye for this sort of thing.)
The evening did not end there. I was extended an invitation to spend the night in a traditional Japanese home. The house was old and built in the traditional manner. Tatami mats covered the floors and lightly framed paper and wood doors separated the rooms. I was immediately given hot tea and something to eat while complete strangers offered to rub my feet. "You must be tired after all this walking," they said (we had only walked twenty minutes!). They were just making sure I was comfortable in a new environment. This is very normal and expected in Japanese culture. People wouldn't think twice about offering anything they could share. Later, I was provided with a robe and a towel and shown to the bathing room. Any sailor would be a fool to turn down a bath knowing they wouldn't see one for another month.
I awoke the next morning very early for the ship departed at 0900. My clothes smelled of the Tatami mat that I had slept on. Rarely have I felt so relaxed. My host then took the trouble of making sure I didn't get lost on the trains, leading me back to the ship before breakfast was on the table. The perfect send off for an ocean crossing.
One other experience that stands out in my memory was a day the crew spent in Nara, a small town outside of Osaka, Japan. Most of the area was either temples, shrines, or gardens. Volunteers from the "Sail-Osaka" organization guided us through the streets while interpreting signs, educating us in Buddhist beliefs, and keeping us out of harm's way. These thoughtful and patient people had their hands full as they tried to "herd" the crew in one direction while trying to keep to a schedule. We were like small children in a candy store. Every corner we turned provided new sights and sounds. We couldn't resist wandering about on our own, falling behind the group, stopping to buy one more trinket, or playing with the deer.
These deer were amazing! They live in, on, and around the streets of Nara. They have no fear of humans and don't mind letting you know that they are hungry. They loved to rub their antlers against us as we walked by and dig their noses into our pockets in search of food.
The world's largest wooden structure is in Nara, housing a huge, bronze statue of Bhudda. Outside the temple, a well was housed under a tiled roof structure and bamboo ladles were hanging near by. These were provided for washing our hands and purifying ourselves before entering the temple. The doors of the temple were tremendous and made of wood - hand worked iron straps held them together. The sky at this time was darkening with a rain cloud. It wouldn't be long before we were getting wet. Inside we were immediately surrounded by dozens of school children, all dressed alike and talking simultaneously. The buzz of their voices mixed with their own echoes, the noise filling the immense space. Added to this din was the thrum of heavy rain on the roof above our heads. The wind increased and blew directly through the doors bringing the rain with it. The school children ran from the doorway looking for cover, all the while screaming and laughing.
In the center of the temple sat Bhudda, quiet and peaceful, bringing a sense of serenity.
John Paul Hope
Deckhand & Gunner
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